Sao Vicente, Cape Verde
The colorful Caribbean feel of the streets overlays a deeper poverty in Mendelo, the second largest city in the islands.
This island suffers from persistent drought, getting a throat parching 250 ml of rain per year. Meanwhile Santo Antao, the island next to them, is rich and lush with rain, produce, sugar cane, and even forests.
But this island has finally gotten desalination technology to help them out, and it's making a big difference in what they can do for themselves.
There are a few markets about the town actually, with some lovely bananas, white yams, cabbages, tomatoes, greens, zuchs and cukes, and other random root veg.
Despite the conditions we found the people to be gracious and kind, ready with a smile at the produce market or cafe. And honestly, as much as we were warned about begging on the streets, I had thought that there would be roving bands of little Oliver Twists asking for money and ready to steal my stuff at any point. Sure there is pan handling, but honestly no more than I've seen in any other city.
Street Dogs
Where some cities like Istanbul have cats all over the place, Sao Vicente has dogs. They're not snarling or obviously mangy at all, just looking as worn down by the environment as the people around them.
It's funny to my what this does to you image of a place. You see kitties lounging about on a city bench in the streets of Istanbul and think aww kitties! But feral dogs roaming the streets suggest that this may be a dirty or even unhealthy place.
But this is complete prejudice, and one I didn't know I had until I got here. The streets are clean, from Mindelo to the countryside, and I saw no animal that was unwell or mangy, only tired from the heat of the day and in need of a lie down on some cool cobblestones for a minute.
I feel ya, dog.
In The End
Although colorful and really interesting, Mendelo is not what I'd call a pleasant place. I do feel for them and the weight of the conditions they bear every day. But seriously in the end I feel like every sailor who has ever passed this way. I'm here because the island is perfectly placed in the Trade Winds for our passage back. Were it not for its fortunate geography, most wouldn't seek it out.
But that would have you miss the resiliency of these people. They have won awards from both the US and China for economic development. They place a very high priority on the education of their people, and despite their poverty have one of the highest literacy rates of any African country. I personally was grateful to have experienced the strength of character, pride in culture, and hopefulness for the future that defines this nation.
